How to Sell Your Notebook

11 04 2008

Technology moves at a brick pace in 2008, there is no denying it. As consumers of technology most of us buy into the upgrade cycle at some point. How to deal with cast-off gear is an issue.

Throwing away old technology is a non starter in most cases. It is either environmentally irresponsible or ignores the inherent value of an object. Almost everything (even old tech) has a market. Read the rest of this entry »





Gateway P6831 FX Wallpaper - Gears of War

9 04 2008

Playing through Gears of War on the PC inspired me to whip up a wallpaper. It is 1920*1200 resolution and free, so you get what you pay for. Enjoy.

I also read a few previews of Fallout 3 that I liked, so here are some wallpapers based on that too.

Read the rest of this entry »





CCleaner - Remove the Crap From Your Notebook

26 03 2008

Thanks to the concise driver installation guide at NBF, I discovered this great tool. CCleaner (Crap Cleaner) is a freeware utility that cleans and optimizes your computer. It is a little more deluxe than past utilities I have written about and warrants a look.

CCleaner found 1.7 GB of temporary files and cached ’stuff’ on my notebook - which I maintain on a regular basis so this was a surprise.

Its registry cleaner purged about 200 keys, remnants from uninstalled programs. The integrated Startup configurator detected several tray utilities that I do not need.

These tweaks, that required about 15 minutes of my time and a single restart, decreased my notebooks start-up time by 20 seconds. And disk thrashing after start-up is all but gone.





Looking For Nvidia Notebook Drivers?

26 03 2008

Notebook makers are notoriously slow at releasing the latest video drivers. Who can blame them? Drivers come out on a weekly basis so its hard to keep pace and the majority of PC users will find a way to screw their machines up and that means more support calls.

For those of that know what we are doing, there are a few options:

Read the rest of this entry »





Hacking the Gateway FX Series

9 03 2008

These notebooks perform great right out of the box, but some people are never satisfied. Lucky for them, the FX series is an inviting platform for notebook enthusiasts.

On the NBR forums there are a few threads discussing the various hacks, mods and upgrades people are performing on their FXs.

Here is just a sampling:

  • Replace the screen with something better. The stock screen on the 6831 model in particular has poor viewing angles.
  • Add a faster CPU. Most people are opting for the new Penryn based Intel Core 2 Duo T9×00 and T8×00 series. It isn’t clear if any of the upcoming quad core mobile CPUs are going to work in the 6831’s Socket P. My fingers are crossed.
  • Add another HDD in the vacant bay. Setup RAID 0 for even greater performance.

A great round up of these projects (with photos) can be found here.





Notebook Tweaking

16 01 2008

Vital Vista Tweak Guide!

http://www.blackviper.com/WinVista/supertweaks.htm

Following this guide made a huge difference on my ThinkPad Z60t and shaved 200 MB from the memory footprint on the Gateway that I am reviewing right now.

Here are a couple of good sources for modded mobility drivers (Nvidia and ATI).

http://www.tweakforce.com/

http://www.laptopvideo2go.com/

Need more info? Leave a question in the comments and I will do my best to answer.





How to buy a notebook online (auctions and marketplaces)

20 02 2006

Last year we wrote an article on buying a used notebook and why you might want to consider this as a reasonable alternative to buying new. At the time buying a notebook online, most notably from eBay, was mentioned in the article but I felt it would be hard to do the topic justice in a paragraph or two. Many people have since requested a guide so we have collected the common wisdom of a few eBay and online marketplace addicts into a single source and are offering it you today - free of charge! Hopefully this will be a case of getting something for nothing.

We have scoured through the posts in the notebookreview.com forums to create a list of questions as well as common common themes that pop up when people discuss buying from online auctions and forums. From this we have put together a list of recommendations that should help you get the most from your purchase. Some of these suggestions are universal, but we are attempting to keep things topical.

As with any transaction there is an element of risk when bidding on an online auction or buying from a forum posting. If you have been led to believe the claims of online insurance, the degree of risk might actually surprise you. But if you take proper precautions you should be safe.

This guide is by no means comprehensive, but we will update the article based on your feedback. Post questions in the discussion thread in the www.notebookreview.com forums and they will be answered there, or in an update to this article.

Checking out a product

How can I be sure that a notebook is OK without seeing it in person? It is possible to make a sound purchase decision online. In general here are some pitfalls to avoid:

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Description: Good sellers provide detailed descriptions of their products - not just cut and paste jobs from the manufacturer website. If a seller purposely leaves out details that could make a product that they are selling more desirable, then it is highly likely that they would leave out details that would detract from an item’s desirability.
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Model number traps: There are often numerous versions of notebook models and these will usually have varying specifications. One model might have Bluetooth where another might not. Make sure you have done your research.

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Condition and accessories: Carefully review the list of what is included in the auction. Clarify the condition of everything you are buying. Some of the things you should look for;

* How long does the battery last?
* How was it used?
* Original owner?
* Are original accessories included?
* Is all the bundled software included?
* Is the screen bright?
* Are there any dead pixels?
* Is the screen hinge solid?
* Are there cracks or creaks?
* Are the keyboard keys worn?
* Does it get hot?
* How loud is the cooling?
* Do all the plugs work?
* Is the operating system included?
* Is there a valid serial sticker (COA)?
* Repair history?

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Blurry pictures: Blurry pictures mean that the seller is hiding something - most of the time. If all you have is a picture to base your decision on, and you can not make out details, should you be disappointed with your item if it arrives in rough shape? Blurry pictures mean the seller is incompetent or hiding something - neither is a good quality in a person that you will be sending money to.
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Short descriptions: Another way to obfuscate a transaction is to provide little information. How can you be disappointed with a deal if you where never sure exactly what you were getting.
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Language barrier: This is not a barrier. If you can not understand someone’s description and they can not articulate answers to your questions, why would you buy from them?
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Warranty: A seller may mention that their product has warranty, but make sure that this is transferable. Also make sure that it is valid in your territory (this is only an issue for cross border shopping). Dell offers its users the ability to look up warranty by service tag or express service code (unique ID similar to a serial number). Dell’s service is is among the best. Users can transfer ownership (domestic and international) and even report a stolen computer.
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Ask lots of questions: The above points can be ameliorated by asking good questions. If a seller is not responsive before they have your money, how responsive will they be after you pay them? Be wary of anyone that can not give you the answer you want. Only use the eBay message system to initiate correspondence. Sellers that ask you to diverge from eBay’s system should be avoided.

Spotting a scam

Wow, there are a lot of notebooks for sale on eBay and some of them are new. Why would anyone legitimately sell anything for less than the current cost in stores? Lots of individuals and groups turn to eBay to sell products. In addition to the average Joe selling a single item that they do not want anymore, you have companies that liquidate off-lease business equipment, sellers of distressed inventory and normal shops that use eBay to access a broader market.

Why would anyone sell a new unopened item online for less than it cost to buy in a store?

The real question is, what makes you think the price that you see in the store is a good price? Just because you and I can walk into a store and buy something for a certain price does not mean that everyone else would get the same price. Some people have more purchasing power because they buy greater volume, or have access to rebates and discounts that we do not get. A price that seems low is not always a sure sign of a scam, but temper this with the fact that something that seems too good to be true usually is.

Why does eBay or any online selling forum allow scams?

They don’t. The problem is that these virtual marketplaces have grown so immensely vast that it is impossible to completely vanquish all the scammers. Sadly, at least one person must usually succumb to a new scam before it is reported. Once a scam has been discovered, they are usually pretty good at cracking down before too much damage is done. The folks at eBay are not pre-cognizant.

eBay encourages its members to report suspected frauds. If you see something that looks like a scam you should report it - eBay has people dedicated to dealing with frauds.

Online market places are trickier to police, but good ones will have a area dedicated to ‘outing’ scam artists and descriptions of their modus operandi. There is less of a safety net against scams in these settings so you owe it to yourself to do some research.

The seller has good feedback, is that enough?

Feedback is a great tool for quickly summing up the type of character that you are about to deal with. It takes a while to earn a nice feedback rating and honest sellers will go to great lengths to keep theirs blemish free. A good feedback rating is a good start.

In addition to the feedback ratings on eBay which are earned by successfully completing transactions, there are services such as Heatware which allow sellers and buyers to leave feedback for each other. There are ways to spoof positive feedback so don’t let someone’s 100% feedback dazzle you until you consider the following.

Who have they been selling to? It is possible to create multiple online accounts and buy/sell to one’s self or have friends boost your feedback. This is particularly true with feedback that is not integrated into the actual transaction mechanism. An example is Heatware, where buyers and sellers are really on the honor system. You want to look at who has been dealing with the person you plan to buy from and see what their feedback is like.

What have they been selling? A common technique employed by scammer seeking to inflate their seller feedback is to sell lots of small items and make the buyers of these low prices items very happy. Doing this achieves a good feedback and what appears to be a long list of successful transactions. The scammer then lists a large number of expensive items. Anyone looking at one of these auctions that does not probe into the sellers feedback runs the risk of being taken. After time the details of an eBay auction are lost and it becomes impossible for you to know what the seller’s previous transactions were. This is one area where Heatware feedback is much better than eBay’s.

Related to the fake feedback scam is the hijacked seller account. eBay has been around long enough that there are many dormant accounts. Through a variety of methods (usually eBay phishing emails asking unsuspecting eBay users to correct account details), scammers can obtain the user id and passwords to these accounts and exploit them to scam people. What are the odds that a seller that has been selling ceramic horse statues for a few years would suddenly switch to selling notebooks? Sure, anything is possible but can you afford to lose your money? If not stick to a safe seller.

What can I do to avoid falling prey to a feedback scam? First, read the sellers history. A little research goes a long way. You can also be part of the solution too. Upon completing a smooth transaction the best thing you can do for fellow buyers and sellers is leave detailed feedback. For example if I buy a PowerBook on eBay leaving a comment like, ‘ A+++++++ Great communication, fast shipping’ is not as helpful as ‘15” PowerBook worked great! Thanks for the great transaction!’

I found a great price and the seller checks out - I am going buy right away!

Although technically not a scam, one of the approaches to selling that I have seen more and more is a low price for an item - usually with a ‘Buy it Now’ option, accompanied by an outrageous shipping fee. This is to catch impulse buyers.

Impulse buying is human nature. From the magazine stands and candy bins near grocery store checkouts to the one click buy of Amazon and the Apple store, this behavior has been known to marketers for years. Under certain conditions we will buy things with out thinking. One of those conditions is fear of missing out on a good deal.

You need to train yourself to avoid this impulse. Instant gratification for deal hunters is better obtained in the bargain bins of big box stores.

In online auctions you will often find the best deals not in the ‘auctions ending soon’ zone, but rather the newly listed area. Here you have a lot of time to think about the deal and ask questions. Any auction that has a buy it now option is best spotted by sorting the list to show new stuff first. Many sellers want a quick and painless sale so they will post a buy it now price less than the market value. The default view on eBay is to show auctions ending soon. Not a lot of people look at the new auctions first so you have a bit more time to perform your diligence. Take time to research the seller and the item.

By this point you should be a position to make an informed and safe buying decision. You know how to check products and people out, and basic scams won’t catch you.

What is the safest way to pay?

It surely is not any form of check, money order or money transfer! You have to keep in mind that there is risk for the seller in accepting these payment methods. Why would they accept risk? There are exceptions but for the most part you should be wary of paying (or accepting payment if you are selling) using any form of payment that does not have some form of insurance. Many credit cards have insurance and PayPal has purchase protection - with some qualification exceptions.

When factoring in the value of insurance, keep in mind that just because there is a process to settle claims it does not mean that you will like the outcome…

If the deal goes sour will I get my money back?

Maybe. It depends on where you bought the item and if you are covered by some form of insurance. This can come from the web site, the payment method and even some third party offerings.

Insured transactions: Keep in mind that online purchase insurance is designed to protect both parties. You may be sure that you have been scammed but eBay/PayPal as the intermediary has to insure that they are fair to both parties. In general buyer and seller insurance is focused on providing remedies to scams or lost merchandise. Proving that something is different than what you thought you were buying is really tough, especially if the description is short and followed by an ‘as is’ or ‘final sale’ statement. In an auction it is generally considered that a lack of information on a listing is factored into the selling price. Ask all your questions before bidding.

In situations where you clearly did not get what you paid for you may be able to file a partial or full claim depending on where you bought the item.

Uninsured transactions: Some online auction and transaction processing companies will attempt to recover your funds even the sale was not insured. Buyers usually have to wait a while before filing a claim and getting their money - both eBay and PayPal have mandatory wait periods before they will take action. Unfortunately this is a lot longer than it takes to empty out a PayPal account. Many people have been disappointed to learn that yes, they deserve to get their money back but PayPal could not recover the funds for you.

Claims are met with a healthy does of skepticism unless you can prove that you were slighted. As a buyer it can be frustrating dealing with this, but from a seller’s perspective it makes a lot of sense. Sellers have rights too.

Sounds scary, why would I buy from an online auction or marketplace?

Buying and selling online can instantly grant you access to items not available where you live or vastly increase the possible market for an item you are selling. Only you can decide if the benefits outweigh the costs. Once you have done this a few times you will get a feel for how these deals work and it should become easier to spot scams.

Buyers - stick to trusted sellers with lots of feedback, preferably in multiple online selling venues. Make sure that you read descriptions carefully and bid only after your questions are answered.

Sellers - diversify your seller feedback. In addition to eBay, you should definitely consider Heatware as well as feedback from any forum that you frequent on a regular basis.

Don’t let this article scare you. The vast majority of online transactions are trouble free.

Is it a lot of work to make sure that the person you are dealing with on an item is not a scam artist? Yes, but its also a lot of work earning the money to buy the item. An ounce of prevention…

If you have any questions about buying on eBay or an online marketplace, post them on the notebookreview.com discussion board.





Used Laptops — Why Buy Them and How to Buy Them

24 12 2004

Why buy a used laptop? New ones are dirt-cheap!

It is tough being geek. We’re faced with a never-ending stream of interesting new technologies that we would like to try out. But the reality is that unless you are uber-geek, chances are you do not make enough money to purchase and enjoy all of these new technologies. The good news is that you do not have to forsake food and shelter in order to be able to purchase those interesting new gadgets that you so desire. There is an easier way. This article will expose you to the seedy underbelly of used laptop buying and selling (it isn’t really all that seedy actually).

Beware! Once you have gained access to a plentiful supply of cheap used laptops there may be no going back. People in serious relationships should seek the permission of their significant others before embarking on this adventure.

What’s my motivation?

Like we were saying, you are a geek. Don’t worry, it’s 2004 – we took over the planet years ago when no one was looking. As a geek, you like to try out interesting new technologies – and they don’t always have to be cutting-edge new. Or maybe you want a fancy new laptop but you have only got cash for cheap basic entry-level model. Being a geek, purchasing a standard entry-level machine is simply out of the question. Those units are fine and dandy for your mom and dad but they simply are not for you. Your problem is that you want the $3,000.00 computer for the price of a $999.00 computer (or less - actually mostly less). So what can you do?

The answer is; you turn to the used market. Because of the rapid pace of technology individuals and corporations are faced with an upgrade cycle every three years. The value of computers spirals downward as soon as the till receipt is finished printing. This is something that we as computer users are familiar with or have been affected by, so why not make it work for us? Certain people and companies need the latest technology in order to do business (or they think they do). When they out-grow a given technology they sell the items either directly or through a broker. If you know what to look for you can find some real gems among these cast-offs. The fact that an entire industry devoted to buying used equipment and selling it for profit has sprouted from this fertile ground should give us all a sense of the opportunity here.

For most people a three-year-old machine is still a very useful item. Unless you are playing a lot of games or doing demanding work like photo or video editing you do not need the latest technology to enjoy your computer.

Will that void my warranty?

Many people shy away from used equipment because they would feel more comfortable with something that comes with a warranty. I submit to you that used equipment is attractive because of the fact that it comes without a warranty. This means two things.

First, the item will be less expensive. Everyone has heard jokes about how quickly computers depreciate in value. This is true. It is not uncommon to see laptops that once sold for $3,000.00 selling on the used market for $500.00 after a period of about three years. This can be pretty frustrating for people who like to purchase the latest technology as soon as it comes to market. But why not make this depreciation work for you? The top of the line of laptop from three years ago probably came with things like 802.11b or Bluetooth. These are still very new and attractive technologies.

The second benefit of buying used merchandise is that you will be free to open up and explore your new purchase without ever having to worry about the consequences of violating the terms of your warranty. Hardware geeks have to start somewhere. Starting with secondhand equipment is the prudent choice. If you make a smart choice in selecting your used laptop it will likely come with user upgradeable components. This means that you almost certainly will be able to upgrade the RAM and hard drive, possibly the optical drive and maybe even the processor. Upgrading these components yourself has the added benefit of teaching you a little bit about how a computer works.

Not all used equipment is sold because there’s something wrong with it. In fact the vast majority of good quality technology these days is over engineered. This is particularly true with good laptops. Corporations, in particular, have IT departments that select equipment based on how durable and easy to support they are. And most employees tend to take good care of the equipment that is loaned to them by their employer. So, in short you have equipment that is built to last and owners that take good care of this same equipment. Sounds good to me.

I have never bought used equipment before, what should I look for?

The first thing you need to do is determine the minimum specifications that you will accept. It is a good rule of thumb to use the system requirements for the application that you will use most often on this particular device as a guideline. Some common scenarios follow.

For basic web surfing, e-mail and office tasks, a 700MHz laptop will be sufficient. A device for this purpose does not need large storage capacity; a 10 or 20GB hard drive will suffice. Unless you plan on using this laptop as a stationary terminal, look for laptops that have lithium ion batteries (for longevity away from a power source) and wireless networking capabilities.

Another common use for old laptops is as Linux terminals. In this case look for devices that use commonly supported components. In particular, if you’re looking for a device that has wireless networking capabilities make sure that you select a system that uses the Orinoco wireless chip, or plan on adding a Cardbus based adapter. Other wireless chips are supported under Linux but it seems as though the Orinoco chip in particular works with most distributions. Most laptops using older video chips will not have OpenGL functionality in Linux. And you can forget about using a software-based modem in Linux.

You probably won’t be purchasing a used laptop for playing the latest games, but many classic games are still enjoyable and worth playing. A used laptop is a great way of getting around to those old adventure games and RPGs that you haven’t finished yet. Look for laptops that use the old ATI Rage Pro or Rage 128 video chip, and try to get at least 8 or 16MB.

How do I make sure that I don’t buy a lemon?

Now that you have some idea of the specifications that you’re searching for the next step is to figure out how to evaluate the condition of any laptop that you find matching your needs.

Start by examining the case and chassis. Carefully look at all corners of the laptop – what you’re looking for here is signs of impact. The most common injury sustained by laptops is being dropped. Sometimes dropping a laptop does not do any permanent or serious damage. But in some cases the resulting mess ends up being held together by epoxy and duct tape and the damage is done to areas that you would prefer remain intact. Laptops are built in much the same way as modern cars, parts attach directly onto the chassis. And the chassis is what gives the unit structure. Cracks in the case will at a minimum result in a squeaky computing experience and can potentially result in a laptop that disintegrates on you. It has been known to happen (may my poor TiBook 400 R.I.P).

The next step is to evaluate the condition of the screen. This is the key element of the human-computer interface. You may be able to live with a few stuck or dead pixels, but you should walk away from any laptop and has a flickering screen or uneven brightness. This can be indicative of loose connections that may or may not be repairable or a faulty backlight. In either case the amount of work required in order to rectify the problem will probably not justify the purchase. That is unless you are a computer tech by trade. Another part of evaluating the screen is examining the hinges for damage or play. As you open and close the display examine the back of the unit for any stress marks or hidden cracks. Also make sure that when open the screen remains in a comfortable viewing position and that it is not too loose. Hinge tension can often be adjusted easily so loose is better than over tightened with resulting cracks.

Now that you have determined that the unit is structurally sound and that the screen is easy on the eyes your next step is to evaluate the power system. This includes both the battery and the interface between the AC adapter and the laptop itself. Testing the battery life can be very tricky. A good rule of thumb is to ask for the seller to show you the battery with a full charge and run the unit on battery power for as long as the seller will let you. Watch how the battery runs down. Let the power configuration utility figure out how much life is left - this can take five minutes. Many times when batteries die, or are close to death, they show a full charge and shortly after unplugging the AC power give-out. The other power issue that you should be aware of is the fact that because laptops often travel they are plugged-in and unplugged frequently. This puts stress on both the laptop’s power jack and the AC adapter’s connector. Test the interface between the two by wiggling the connection to see if power is intermittently lost. If the power or charge light goes on and off as you wiggle the connection, this is probably a laptop you should walk away from.

A laptop’s cooling system is very important. To make sure it is operating properly test the unit for heat and fan noise while it is plugged in. A laptop that is two hot may have a problem with its cooling system, or may have been subject to excessive heat during its life. Heat is an enemy of computer components, too much of it can drastically shorten the lifespan of a computer’s components.

Your evaluation should also include testing as many of the keyboard keys as possible, listening for strange hard drive sounds, playing a CD or DVD in the optical drive, and confirming that the various networking and wireless interfaces work properly by using them to connect to a network or the web.

Items that add value to a used laptop include the following; MS Certificate of Authenticity (this is the little operating system sticker commonly placed on the bottom of laptops), restore and recovery disks, original peripherals, and other items that you would otherwise purchase if they were not included.

Now that I know what to look for what brands and models are worth investigating?

Among laptop cognoscenti there are a few brands that standout. IBM has a well-earned reputation for building incredibly durable and sexy laptops under the ThinkPad brand. There is an active user community that will provide support if you run into problems, and most models use well-supported components giving you the greatest choice when looking for parts or selecting an operating system (driver support). Toshiba, Panasonic, and Fujitsu also have excellent reputations for building solid business-class laptops.

The other brand that is worth investigating is Apple. Apple has been making good quality laptops for as long as IBM. You can run Linux on most Powerbooks, or choose from Apple’s Classic or Unix based offerings. Apple’s highly vertical approach to computers results in very well integrated and elegant laptops. They also tend to come right out of the box with most of the software you will need (iLife being a good example).

You may be asking why I have not included Dell or Sony Vaio laptops in the above list. Dell computers, quite frankly, can be purchased brand new for only slightly more than what an interesting used laptop would be worth on the market. They can be had very cheap if you decide you want one. Sony laptops have always been targeted at the consumer. In general they are slightly less durable than business class laptops. They are however very attractive and often come bundled with some very nice software.

What kind of laptop can expect to find, and how much will it cost?

As someone that trades laptops quite frequently I’m always looking for new and interesting items to purchase or trade for. The good news is that in general, I find that there are too many good deals out there on interesting laptops. By interesting I mean items that do not resemble today’s commodity laptops in any way. In other words we don’t want anything big, heavy, slow and unconnected. For sure, you can find a plethora of basic laptops from a couple of years ago but a $999.00 Dell easily eclipses their capabilities.

The sweet spot for what I would term interesting laptops lies in the $500.00 to $700.00 price range. Here we’re looking for executive class machines; items from two or three years ago that were outside the means of the average computer user then. A good example is the Toshiba Portégé 4000 – a specimen of which I was able to obtain recently. Three years ago when this laptop was released it retailed for over $3,000.00. Now this laptop can be purchased from eBay within our target price range.

What kind of features can we expect? In this case we get a laptop with the 750MHz Intel Pentium IIIM ultra low voltage processor. It won’t win any speed awards but it will be very conservative when consuming battery power. The Lithium Ion battery pack that comes standard with this laptop should last 3.5 to four hours on a charge if it that has been well maintained. A common accessory that many people purchased along with this laptop was the extended battery (to boost battery life to seven hours) which fits into the modular drive bay. The modular drive bay means that whatever optical drive this unit comes standard with; we have the option to upgrade it. In this case it came with a DVD ROM/ CDRW commonly referred to as a combo drive. Give preference to the combo drive, as accessories for laptops (even old laptops) are expensive. The 4000 I was able to find came with 512MB of SD RAM – the PC 100 version – and a 30GB hard drive. Not bad even by today’s standards. The 12” active TFT runs at a native resolution of 1024*768. The 4000 also came with 802.11b and Bluetooth. Wireless networking is pretty standard now, but Bluetooth is still rare. The specifications of this laptop were very impressive three years ago and it is still the case today that this is a very desirable machine.

Toshiba spec’ed the 4000 with a magnesium case. When examining the case for its structural integrity this is a key factor. Everything else being equal, always give preference to a laptop that uses metal in its casing and chassis. The case is small enough for this to be considered a thin and light laptop, although its metal construction gives the 4000 a surprisingly robust field and weight. Toshiba utilized a common design theme across all of their laptops for a period of time. This design involved the use of a single central hinge giving their laptops a clamshell look. It was/is a good design - at once distinctive and functional. It is a very durable joint.

The Pentium IIIM ultra low voltage in the 4000 uses Intel’s speed step technology to conserve energy, which in turn reduces heat. The 4000 operates very cool. Remember, heat is the enemy. You will not want to encode DVDs with this CPU.

As was common for a short period of time in 2001, this Toshiba came with a license for both Windows 2000 Professional and Windows XP Professional. If you’re able to obtain the XP Professional recovery disks you will be able to run the latest OS and download the newest versions of Toshiba’s excellent configuration utilities.

System performance in everyday tasks does not betray the 4000’s age. When surfing the Internet flash animations and media files played without incident. I suspect that if you attempt to watch media encoded with one of the more processor intensive codecs, such as DivX, that you may have some problems obtaining smooth frame rates or synchronized audio. This can sometimes be remedied by finding more efficiently written media players.

Speaking of frame rates, this machine uses an integrated video chipset that shares system memory. Attempting to play any 3D game, even an older one such as Quake 3, would probably be asking too much from this laptop. But something like Baldur’s Gate should run fine.

For doing those tasks that occupy most of the world’s computers 90% of the time (that being surfing the Internet and reading and responding to e-mail) this machine is more than adequate.

Because of the nature of corporate leasing, laptops like this appear on the market about three years after they were released. And because they were fully depreciated by the company that bought them, they can be had for relatively low price.

Comparing the 4000 to an entry-level Dell (the Inspiron 1000 is a good comparison), we see that they will probably provide the user with a similar experience doing the common tasks that we mentioned earlier. Neither will fare well at playing the latest games. Neither will offer enough screen real estate to do serious photo or video work. Both will give the user some degree of wireless mobility, but in reality the 4000 will last longer away from the plug. That it also trumps the Dell in terms of connectivity by including Bluetooth. And if you look hard enough you should be able to find a 4000 for approximately half the price of the dell.

So you get a device that offers similar usability, for less money, and which looks infinitely better then an entry-level laptop. Not a bad adventure!

Conclusion

In summary purchasing a used laptop can be lots of fun. You get a chance to explore exotic hardware from only a couple of years ago that you might not otherwise have been able to afford. You also get the opportunity to recycle technology that at best could be described as not environmentally friendly. There is a certain satisfaction that comes from finding something unique and rare. If you choose wisely you may get your hands on a piece of technology that has features that are still not common in the contemporary average computer. The Toshiba Portégé 4000 that I used to illustrate this article is a good example of a laptop that is still appealing today.

And remember, that an old laptop has completed its most of its depreciation by the time you purchase it. This means that if you decide you don’t like the unit you find, you should be able to sell it without having to lose too much money – and when you’re really good at this you’ll be able to make money (no, you won’t get rich).

Remember that if a laptop was able to do video editing three years ago for a professional that film studio, like the titanium PowerBook for example, then it will still be capable of doing those things now. It will simply do them slower than a new computer can, but for a lot less..